“Fuet” express: a fermented tartare

Fermentation has helped us bring to life ideas we initially thought were impossible. Like recreating the magic of a cured sausage such as fuet (a traditional product from Catalonia) on a tartare made from fresh meat. Typically, fuet is made from a mixture of pork meat and fat, seasoned with salt and spices, tied into long segments, and hung in a controlled environment to dry and cure for weeks or even months. As part of the process, a microorganism called Penicillium nalgiovense covers the exterior, contributing some of its most distinctive organoleptic qualities.

At Mugaritz, we became particularly interested in capturing the specific flavor that develops during these types of curing processes as a result of Penicillium nalgiovense. Our goal was to create a bite that would be raw on the inside but fermented on the outside, through the deliberate inoculation of microorganisms capable of reproducing without having to dry or dehydrate the meat first.

We tested different approaches until we arrived at what we serve in 2025. We prepared a hand-chopped entrecôte tartare, added a touch of curing salt (nitrifying salt), shaped it into a “nigiri” form, and inoculated the exterior with Penicillium nalgiovense. The preservative helped maintain the freshness of the meat for a set period of time without inhibiting the growth of the mold. Within 48 hours, a white bloom appeared on our “fuet express,” staking its territory with complex flavors reminiscent of traditional curing methods, while simultaneously acting as a barrier against unwanted microorganisms.

To echo the depth typically found in cured sausages, we added a touch of alegría riojana on top — bringing brightness and heat to a creation that reconciles the seemingly contradictory qualities of being both raw and fermented at once.